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The Smell Of Christmas Eve

It was a freezing winter morning. I was standing at the tram stop and waiting to see a dear friend of mine. We were close to Christmas time, and we had to exchange gifts. I looked around, and the streets of Milan were full of flashing lights. People moved frantically between one shop and another to make their last purchases, and a thin fog pervaded the city, as is customary in the northern metropolis. The tram arrived, I run to meet my friend who immediately threw his arms around my neck and kissed me on the cheek. I notice that instead of walking away, he moved closer, plunged his face into my scarf, and whispered in my ear, “Wow, what a wonderful smell you have! Just the ones I like!”. “I’m glad you like it, it’s a gift I gave myself for Christmas.”  " IL (Eau de Toilette) | Lancetti " had just come out on the market, the autumn-winter season of the early 90s. At that time I was working to support my studies, and the perfume was only one, and it had to last for the entire s

Is this a fruitchouli Coco Monsieur?

ZARA Emotional #7 Fleur de Patchouli

ZARA Emotional #7 Fleur de Patchouli
ZARA Emotionals #7 Fleur de Patchouli

Fleur de Patchouli is a chypre-floriental daring fragrance, with leathery nuances that tell its strong temperament. The atmosphere of a contemporary music party comes to life and finds its balance in the classic notes of fruity patchouli, pink patchouli, or pink chypre as some call this kind of modern accords. The notes –peony, patchouli, leather, and guaiac–say absolutely nothing about the scent. It’s not possible to imagine what it smells like from that roster until you rock it. So many of these notes are rendered completely abstract that what jumps out is greenish, pink patchouli over which have been melted flavoring and the type of fruit syrups used to flavor water. Ain't no cloying, yet smoky and woody to bear the lavish mildness.
ZARA Emotionals #7 Fleur de Patchouli

Fleur de Patchouli is a modern composition with a strong yet surprisingly fresh character. It opens with a delightful fragrant sweet and rosy aroma of peonies in voluptuous bloom, like "morning rose petals", with just a tad of citrus, definitely a floral accord with something dirty going on.

The heart is a sweet amber with that modern green cotton candy-patchouli which defines so many of the perfumes from this era. Hours after, this deep, dark, amber-patchouli fades to a sugarcoated white musk. It comes across as both sweet and clean. Due to its many diverse associations, the hippy era, patchouli is and always will be a “love or hate it scent.” Notwithstanding, if you are anything like me, you will love it.

And then comes the dry-down full of guaiac wood, a little bit birch tar-y, leathery, even tarmac-y. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. Hints of tobacco, too, or the whiff of burning leaves in winter. There’s nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, that’s for sure. I've seen many people mistaking guaiac wood with palo santo wood, yet they are two kinds of wood apart. I would describe guaiac aroma as being masculine but also very mellow, creamy, lactonic with far less of the minty and balsamic qualities found within the regular palo santo. Guaiac essence is from the heartwood, which produces an essential oil with a sweet, woody, milky fragrance reminiscent of sandalwood, whereas palo santo essence is from the old bark, which falls down and acquires intense aroma while getting older.

ZARA Emotionals #7 Fleur de Patchouli

I see Fleur de Patchouli perfectly fit the cold days of late autumn and early spring, all too not offensive and light enough to be worn in the office,  spot-on for evening and dinner out. Yet, not too strong for a night out or clubbing. Projection is moderate and longevity is above average. This is one of those perfumes that lingers and holds onto fabric forever. In my opinion, this release is the lighter and sweeter version of Coco Mademoiselle fragrance, with a more masculine facet. Congrats Jo Loves (aka Jo Malone), cause out of your 8 emotions this is a pleasant one.


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