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The Smell Of Christmas Eve

It was a freezing winter morning. I was standing at the tram stop and waiting to see a dear friend of mine. We were close to Christmas time, and we had to exchange gifts. I looked around, and the streets of Milan were full of flashing lights. People moved frantically between one shop and another to make their last purchases, and a thin fog pervaded the city, as is customary in the northern metropolis. The tram arrived, I run to meet my friend who immediately threw his arms around my neck and kissed me on the cheek. I notice that instead of walking away, he moved closer, plunged his face into my scarf, and whispered in my ear, “Wow, what a wonderful smell you have! Just the ones I like!”. “I’m glad you like it, it’s a gift I gave myself for Christmas.”  " IL (Eau de Toilette) | Lancetti " had just come out on the market, the autumn-winter season of the early 90s. At that time I was working to support my studies, and the perfume was only one, and it had to last for the entire s

Neroli, Orange Blossom, And All That Jazz



There are many fragrances on the market belonging to the citrus family, which include neroli, orange blossom, or both, but I have a doubt. Aren't they the same thing? It would seem not. Or rather, both essences are got from orange flowers, sweet or bitter, but depending on the extraction method, they take on slightly different fragrances and take a unique name. If you, like me, are curious to know the difference, keep reading, otherwise jump directly to the description of this gem. Neroli oil is an essential oil produced from bitter orange blossoms (Citrus bigardia). Its scent is sweet, honeyed, and a little metallic with green, dry, and spicy nuances. They also extracted orange blossom from the same flower, and they widely used both extracts in perfumery. We can describe orange blossom as a sweeter, warmer, and more floral scent than neroli. They extract neroli by steam distillation that gives dryness to the bouquet and the orange blossom through a process of enfleurage—today little used because of prohibitive costs—or solvent extraction. When you apply those essences, close your eyes for a second and transport yourself to a place like the Alhambra in Spain, where you walk among orange trees and get seduced by their sweet perfume that lingers in the warm wind. I remember the time I spent in Siviglia a few years ago; it was the middle of January, the temperature was mild, and the citrus trees were blossoming everywhere. What a pleasure strolling around and smelling such a relaxing redolence.

It rivals Tom Ford Neroli Portofino in its wording and execution. Néroli Intense starts with an explosion of bitter notes of invigorating lemon and mandarin. The citrus fruit's aroma is sincere, like squeezing the outermost part of the peel and letting the “odorous lymph” escape. It is fresh yet bitter, dry, but with a sweet, rich, and lasting background. The zestiness dominates the opening. Weird enough, I am not catching the green and aromatic vibes of the rosemary. It usually has a strong and pungent scent, but here I am getting any on my skin, perhaps a bit on a paper strip. The initial stage gives me a sense of dewy refreshment.

Let the beast calms down, and a sunny heart of neroli, orange blossom, and jasmine beat. Dry neroli emerges and blooms so beautifully alongside the white floral accord of orange. Néroli Intense releases a brilliant white layer of sparkling citrus and blinding neroli that is both full-bodied and clean. Sure, the citrus subsides more, but it never really goes away to become just a floral fragrance.

The dry-down anchors on a warm amber and woody signature, which completes this olfactory stroll with a resolutely masculine trail. I think that’s what gives it such superior longevity. The nice amber note within adds a different aspect to this fragrance besides a clean citrus flower. It creates a warm heart and adds to the inviting soapy vibe, though it isn’t powerful.

Jeanne en Provence Néroli Intense is a wonderful and very well-made scent, calm, soapy, relaxing, clean, SPA type, laundry, and prominent floral-musky aspect. It reminds me of the typical creamy Naples pie, the Pastiera Napoletana, which includes orange blossom water, and smells like Néroli Intense. The fresh, pure, out-of-the-shower scent leaves my skin after 3 hours. Perfect for a sunny early morning. It’s surely meant for the warmer summer and spring, I don’t like citrus colognes in cold months. The fragrance projects well and has very good longevity compared to most summer fragrances.
Néroli Intense does not smell cheap and could easily be a very expensive niche scent. It is not a disruptive or innovative perfume. I can find many similarities with the cheap eau de cologne 4711, the average design Ferrari Bright Neroli, or the very expensive niche TF Neroli Portofino. Well, the others smell delicious. Néroli Intense smells divine. If you are a citrus lover and go nuts for citrus blossoms, try it, and you will not regret it.

The review is based on a 100ml bottle I have owned since April 2021.

-Elysium


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